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Vive le mois d'août

The bright morning sun shone directly down the middle of Rue de Rivoli and into my eyes turning oncoming pedestrians in to moving silhouettes.

Distracted by the blue summer sky, framed in the remnants of Haussmann, I barely noticed the noise of garbage trucks, car horns and the typical clamour of big city hustle and bustle.

Spring has finally given way to summer and that light feeling that accompanies thoughts of vacation, the end of school or lazing the day away on a sidewalk terrace enjoying un demi (25cl draft beer). For Parisians, native or transplants, it is a special time of year.

Today marks the start of les grandes vacances – the official start of the French school summer holidays. Many children will burst through the school doors today rejoicing at the arrival of holiday time. This is not only a special time for French families and their children, it is also special for those of us ‘visitors’ working and living in Paris. At a slow but steady pace, Paris will empty out. Parisians will pack up their things and leave the city and in a sense, hand the city over to the tourists for the summer months. On French radio, regular traffic updates for the juilletistes (July holiday-makers) and aoûtiens (August holiday-makers) indicate that perhaps Paris is the best place to be in August. All the traffic jams and crowds have moved south!

Not only is parking practically free in Paris at this time, but the traffic wardens turn a blind eye to any illegal parking – or perhaps they too are on holiday! If your favourite restaurants haven't closed for the summer months, this is the time to get that sought-after table or simply find a place to sit in the likes of Place des Vosges or Les Jardins de Luxembourg. Even riding the Metro at 6 pm can be relatively painless! You can also spend a day at Paris Plage, the hugely successful man-made beach set up along the banks of the Seine or take a picnic to Parc de la Villette for free open-air cinema.

August offers a different kind of Parisian experience to the expat, one without the Parisians. Locals who are here in August - and many choose to stay - appreciate the drop in stress levels and welcome the change of ambiance. Vive le mois d’août!

Photo taken from: http://www.douglas.stebila.ca/pictures/2003/paris/ and used under the conditions posted at www.creativecommons.org

The Best Known Secret in Le Marais

Nestled in the Marais district of Paris on the Rue de Vieille du Temple is an atmospheric gem that inspires a return of the romanticism that has for so long defined the city of lights.

Frequented by the discerning and especially wine lovers, la Belle Hortense is a 19^th-century style café housed in a literary motif that combines fine wine, literature and art to create a true Parisian ambience.

The café, named after the playful novel by Jacques Roubaud, features a wonderful selection of regional wines that can be ordered by the glass or bottle, or purchased to take away. Along with your wine, enjoy some delicious French cheese and charcuterie available upon request from the sister restaurant across the street, and sometimes offered by the gracious staff.

Inside this warm and friendly establishment, where the music blends gently into the background, you can relax at the bar or retreat to the back room to sit comfortably on a sofa and peruse the artwork decorating the walls and the large selection of books from a variety of genres. Most of the books are in French, but among them, you will find a small and interesting selection of books in English.

La Belle Hortense also plays host to exhibitions usually by inspiring young artists, book signings, lectures and round-table discussions.

For people who enjoy relishing in the romantic idealism of Paris through ambience, wine and location, La Belle Hortense will most certainly not disappoint.

La Belle Hortense, 31 rue Vieille du Temple, 75003 Métro Line 1: Saint-Paul.

Tel : 01 48 04 71 60. Open daily from 17:00 to 02:00.