The bright morning sun shone directly down the middle of Rue de Rivoli and into my eyes turning oncoming pedestrians in to moving silhouettes.
Distracted by the blue summer sky, framed in the remnants of Haussmann, I barely noticed the noise of garbage trucks, car horns and the typical clamour of big city hustle and bustle.
Spring has finally given way to summer and that light feeling that accompanies thoughts of vacation, the end of school or lazing the day away on a sidewalk terrace enjoying un demi (25cl draft beer). For Parisians, native or transplants, it is a special time of year.
Today marks the start of les grandes vacances – the official start of the French school summer holidays. Many children will burst through the school doors today rejoicing at the arrival of holiday time. This is not only a special time for French families and their children, it is also special for those of us ‘visitors’ working and living in Paris. At a slow but steady pace, Paris will empty out. Parisians will pack up their things and leave the city and in a sense, hand the city over to the tourists for the summer months. On French radio, regular traffic updates for the juilletistes (July holiday-makers) and aoûtiens (August holiday-makers) indicate that perhaps Paris is the best place to be in August. All the traffic jams and crowds have moved south!
Not only is parking practically free in Paris at this time, but the traffic wardens turn a blind eye to any illegal parking – or perhaps they too are on holiday! If your favourite restaurants haven't closed for the summer months, this is the time to get that sought-after table or simply find a place to sit in the likes of Place des Vosges or Les Jardins de Luxembourg. Even riding the Metro at 6 pm can be relatively painless! You can also spend a day at Paris Plage, the hugely successful man-made beach set up along the banks of the Seine or take a picnic to Parc de la Villette for free open-air cinema.
August offers a different kind of Parisian experience to the expat, one without the Parisians. Locals who are here in August - and many choose to stay - appreciate the drop in stress levels and welcome the change of ambiance. Vive le mois d’août!
Photo taken from: http://www.douglas.stebila.ca/pictures/2003/paris/ and used under the conditions posted at www.creativecommons.org
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